No Quiet on the Western Front

Thanks to a new generation of chefs bringing chutzpah and bright ideas to the table, the Perth dining scene feels (and tastes) more diverse than ever. Go west indeed.

To paraphrase a certain Ferris Bueller: the West Australian dining scene moves pretty fast. And if you don’t stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it – even though that “it” feels like it’s changing from week to week.

One moment it could be a hip British wine bar changing the fortunes of a once passe suburb. The next, all eyes are on a low-key eatery that’s harbouring yet another stowaway from the world of fine dining.

And then there are the enfants terribles eschewing “traditional” restaurant models and running Asian-inspired barbecue pop-ups, taking over bowling club kitchens, and generally revelling in their role as industry disruptors.

In short, when it comes to having options for places to dine and wine, Perth eaters have never had it better.

While the local dining scene had been steadily building momentum over the past decade, COVID seemed to have hit fast-forward on everything. The combination of a (relatively) easy run through the pandemic, cooking talents returning to or migrating west, plus a captive audience hungry to eat (cancelling an entire state’s annual winter migration to Europe for three years running does wonders for a state’s food scene) all conspired to create one heck of a growth spurt and opportunities galore for emerging talent to step up. The city’s new guard didn’t have to be asked twice.

Some took on the challenge of running a kitchen for the first time. Some decided that the time was right to open a dining room of their own or to expand. And some changed tack on career trajectories to pursue pipe (and sandwich and steak and pinsa) dreams. All – or at least all those mentioned here – brought something delicious and unexpected to the table.

Welcome to the 2024 edition of Perth’s young chefs to watch. They’re looking forward to meeting and cooking for you all.