One day in 2015, Donovan Macdonald decided to spend his tax return money on a smoker. A state manager at Woolworths, until this point, he had basically zero interest in food and less in cooking.

Big Don’s isn’t like other restaurants. It has no chairs, no tables, no plates and no glasses, and it only opens for business one day a week. It was started by a non-chef who began at 32 with a project that grew out of his backyard.